top of page
Search

Reeded Walnut Coffee Table Plans

Have you ever had a project you thought would be good in hindsight but just turned out not so great? I definitely had one of those projects. Luckily I was able to reuse the wood and build this walnut coffee table that I absolutely LOVE!

 

I know all the dowels might look daunting, so I have included a link to purchase the exact size you need.

 

If you are ready to tackle making half round dowels on your own, I have also included the router bit you will need to roundover both sides of the wood to get the ½” dowel.


If you have a CNC, message me and I will send you the free file!


I hope you love the plans! and as always if there are any questions feel free to ask them in the comments.



Overview


 








Material List


Shopping List

  • wood glue

  • 2x2x6’ piece of wood (actual size 1.5” x 1.5” x 72”)

  • 7 bd ft of ¾” thick wood for the top or 5 – ¾” thick x 5” wide x 96” length

  • 3 bd ft of ¾” thick wood for the aprons or 1 – ¾” thick x 3” wide x 96” length

  • 1 bd ft of ¾” thick wood for the base supports or 1 – ¾” thick x 3” wide x 60”

  • figure 8 fasteners

  • CA glue - I like this one

  • sandpaper

  • Wagner Earlex 500 for spraying the finish

  • 1 ¼” pocket screws

  • 3/4" forstner bit

  • 3/8” roundover bit (optional) for the half round dowels and/or rounding over the top

  • 6/8” roundover bit (optional) for rounding over the legs

  • If you have a CNC message me and I will send you the file!

  • ½” half round dowels (I used walnut ) Link here to purchase

    • If you want to make your own half round dowels here is the router bit youll need

 

*little tip: whenever I order board feet from a lumberyard, I always add 20 percent to my order. Just incase!



Tools Needed

  • Circular saw/table saw

  • Drill

  • Sander

  • Kreg jig

  • Measuring tape

  • Miter saw

  • Jigsaw

  • Router (optional)


Cut List

  • Top 35" L x 21" W x .75" thickness

  • Legs 16.25” L x 1.5” W x 1.5” thickness

  • Long apron 30.5” L x 2.5” W x .75” thickness

  • Short apron 16.5” L x 2.5” W x .75” thickness

  • Base supports 17” L x 2.5” W x .75” thickness

  • Half round dowels 2.5” L x .5” W x .5” thickness



STEPS



  1. Glue up the individual boards to make up the table top and cut it to size.

    Using a circular saw and straight edge or even a track saw will probably be the easiest way to cut it to size.

    Optional : Round the edges of the top to create a softer look, like I did!





  1. Attach the legs to the short aprons with wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws.

    As shown in the picture, make sure the apron is set back 1/2" from the front of the legs to make room for the dowels.

If using the CNC file, make sure the apron that you already cut the reeds and then

attach the apron to the legs flush with the front of the legs.




  1. Attach the long aprons the same way as you did the short aprons, with wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws.

    Again, make sure the apron is set back 1/2" from the front of the leg.


If using the CNC file, make sure the apron that you already cut the reeds and then

attach the apron to the legs flush with the front of the legs.




  1. Attach the base supports with wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws. The supports are 7" in from both ends of the base.





  1. Attach the dowels with wood glue and a dab of CA glue. Spray the CA glue to activate it then place it on the apron. This will allow the dowel to stick immediately and the wood glue will dry, creating a very strong hold.


If you used the CNC file to create the apron, then ignore this step.





  1. Attach the top to the base using the figure 8 fasteners. Drill into the aprons with the forstner bit until the figure 8 sits flush in the hole.

    Flip the table top upside down, and the base upside down on top of it. Make sure the table top extends evenly on all sides, then screw the fasteners into the top.






  1. Time to apply finish! After you've sanded of course... I usually sand to 220, making sure to evenly sand by running light pencil lines over the whole top and then sanding until they're gone.

I really really didnt want to try to get in the grooves of the reeded detail by hand so I used the Wagner Earlex 500 to spray a tung oil finish. It was a game changer! I finished applying and wiping off the finish in less than 10 minutes.

Then all I did was run mineral spirits through the spray can several times and then wash it out again with soap and water. Super easy!







Don't you love how the grain pops with this finish?!





Comments


bottom of page