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High End Desk/Console Dupe Plans

This is by fay my favorite furniture piece I've built. I probably say that about every single furniture piece but that's why woodworking is so much fun.

I saw this "console" while searching Pinterest, which is a godsend for inspiration and I found this console. I saw that they used it as a desk and I knew I had to build it for my daughter. It was almost $2,000 for Ash and Ash veneer and I knew I could make it for WAY less.

If you don't know Ash is a hardwood that is similar to red oak but has more white tones, it is also a little less expensive.

For this breakdown I am going to use red oak boards you can find at any hardware store to make finding the wood a little easier. If you want to go all out and get some Ash, be my guest! You can find it at your local lumberyard or order it online.

Here is a detailed breakdown of how I built it. I hope it inspires you to build it or build something you love for your home. There is no better feeling then seeing a piece of furniture you built being used by the people you love.

If you're getting ready to start this or any other project I highly recommend

Corbin walked me through the easiest way to build this desk. Wayhome is a one on one service that helps DIYers and homeowners before they get started on a project.


Table saw or Circular saw with Guide

Router/Router Table

1/4" Bead Bit

Kreg Jig 720 Pro

1 1/4" Pocket Screws


Forstner bit


1/2" Roundover Bit

Kreg Drawer Slide Jig

Orbital Sander


7: 1x6x6

1 2x4 3/4" plywood

4: turned legs - I ordered mine from Etsy. Just make sure they are 27-29" tall. Mine were about 2" thick at the top.

Wood glue - I like using Titebond

Stain - I used Rubio monocoat in intense black for this build

4: full extension side mount drawer slides

4: cabinet knobs or whatever hardware you want! (Im not your boss)

Figure 8 fasteners

Double Sided Tape

1 inch screws

Cut List

Top: 54" x 18.5"


Top of side: 12.75" x 4" (x2)

Middle of side: 12.75" x 1" (x2)

Bottom of side with curves: 12.75" x 3.5" (x2)


Side 12 3/8" x 3 1/2" (x2)

Front & back 20 5/8" x 3 1/2" (x2)

Bottom 21 1/8" x 13 1/8" (x2)

Front Stretcher

Top: 47" x 1"

Bottom curved piece: 47" x 3 7/8"

Back: 47" x 5 1/4"

Decorative Pieces on the Desk Top

Back piece: 50 3/8" x 3 3/4"

Side pieces: 13 7/8" x 3 3/4"


1.Glue up the boards for the top. Make sure when youre gluing them up you alternate your clamps on the top and bottom to avoid any bow. Also make sure not to apply too much pressure (ask me how I know).

2. This is an optional step. You don't need a router and router table for this build but if you want to add a little extra something, something a router is so worth it.

Using a beading bit , route a bead on the top and bottom of the upper part of the side.

3. To create the curve for the side pieces, take your board and nail a small nail 2" down from the top and middle of the board. Nail a nail on both of the bottom corners as well. Use something that is flexible (I used some old fluted molding I had) and wrap it under each of the 3 nails. This will create a consistent curve and now all you have to do is trace it. (save the offcut for step 7!)

4. Cut it out with a jigsaw. Sand any imperfections and use that cutout to transfer the same curve to the next side piece. Repeat!

5. Now its time to put the legs together! Pocket hole all of the side pieces on each side. Using glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws (for hardwood) attach the top side piece first and make sure it is flush with the top of the legs. Then attach the small middle piece and then the curved pieces. For the curved piece, I recessed it slightly about 1/4" to give the side more depth. This is completely optional. I just like how it looked.

6. Now that you've got your sides built, its time to attach the back. Pocket hole both sides of the back piece. Glue and using the same pocket hole screws as in the previous step attach the back to the legs. Make sure the back is flush with the back of the legs and the top of the legs. Its important to check for square here.

7. To make the curved piece for the front, use the offcut of the curve you had in step 3 and trace that on either end of your board. Cut it out with a jigsaw and sand any imperfections. This will give you a pretty consistent curve.

8. Attach the front curved piece to the front of the legs with pocket holes and glue. Make sure its flush to the bottom of the legs. I also recessed this piece back 1/4" but again its optional.

9. For the small middle front piece, attach the center vertical piece to the long horizontal piece with a pocket screw and glue. Make sure its in the center of the long horizontal piece.

10. Attach the piece from step 9 above the curved piece on the front of the desk. I just glued it to the bottom curved piece but if you want the extra strength you can pocket hole the horizontal piece to the legs.

11. Cut the top to size. You can use a circular saw and straight edge, track saw or table saw.

12. Attach the top to the base using figure 8 fasteners. Make sure the hole is larger than the figure 8 to allow for wood movement with the seasons.

13. Optional: Route the top and bottom of the table top with a 1/2" roundover bit.

14. Add the center divider using pocket holes and wood glue. Pocket hole into the back of the desk, the top and into the front stretcher. Make sure the center divider is attached at the center of the desk.

15. Shim out either side of the center divider with 1/4" plywood so it is flush with the vertical piece at the front of the desk.

16. Attach the drawer slides, making sure they are recessed 3/4" from the front of the desk. Use the Kreg Drawer Slide Jig to make it super easy to attach the slides.

17. Cut your drawer box to size. Take the total length of the opening and subtract 1/2" to get your measurements.

18. Using your circular saw with straight edge, track saw or table saw add a groove (dado) to the bottom of all the drawer slides. I put the groove 1/2" up from the bottom of the drawer. I also made the depth of the groove 1/4".

19. Cut your drawer bottom to size. Put your drawer box together using glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws. Make sure your drawer is square! This is very important. Also make sure the pocket holes face the front and the back of the drawer so they will be hidden. Slide the drawer bottom into the groove.

20. Cut your drawer faces to size. Optional: route a bead on either end of the drawer front.

21. Since they are inset make sure you leave 1/8" spacing on all 4 sides. Use double sided tape to put your drawer front in place. Use 1" screws to attach the drawer front to the drawer.

22. Cut the top accent pieces to size. To get the curve, use the offcut from step 3, trace and cut it with. a jigsaw. To get a consistent curve, you can clamp the two pieces together and sand them at the same time.

23. Glue up the top accent pieces first. I usually let it set up for about 1-2 hours. Glue the top accent pieces to the table top. Leave 1" on each side. Clamp and let it dry.

24. Sand, stain and you've made yourself a beautiful desk (or a console table).

What do you think of this project? Let me know in the comments!

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