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Bar Cabinet Plans



Milescraft Grabber Plus

Milescraft JointMaster

Milescraft Drillblock +

Milescraft Saw Guide

3/8 dowels 

Miter saw


80, 120 and 220 grit sandpaper



Power pro screws 11/2”

3/8” drill bit

Kreg Jig Hinge Jig

1/4” roundover bit and router


Wood glue



90 bd ft of 4/4 wood or 3/4” Plywood

1/4” plywood

3/4” plywood

2x3 - 4


4: Inset cabinet hinges

6: drawer slides

Cabinet knobs/pulls 

Cut List

2x3 base: 60.5”(2) 16” (5)

Bottom Panel (1): 63.25” x 22.25”

Side Panel (1): 22.25” x 34”

Center Panel (3): 22.25” x 30.75”

Door (2): 29” x 19.25”

Drawer front (3): 21.75” x 8 5/8”

Face frame: 

Sides: 34” x 1.25” (20)

Toe Kick : 63.5” x 3.5”

Upper face frame: 63.5” x 1.25” (1)

Face frame divider: 29” x 1 5/8” (2)

Drawer divider: 21.75” x 1.25” (2)

Plywood Cabinet Spacer:

 20.25” x 6

22.75” x 3

Drawer box (3): 

17.5” x 8.25” (6) Sides

18 7/8” x 8.25” (6) Front & Back

20 3/8” x 17.5” (Bottom)

Trim (12): 1/4” x 1/4” 

  1. Make the base the cabinet will sit on. Make sure it is level with shims and screw it into the studs. 

2. Set the bottom panel on the base and using the Milescraft JointMaster and a 3/8” drill bit, mark and drill the side of the bottom panel and the side of the side panel to join them together. Make sure to dry fit them!

3. Repeat with all 3 center panels, making sure to space them evenly apart. 

4. Using 3/8” dowels and 11/2” screws, glue and screw all the pieces together from the bottom of the cabinet. 

5. Cut and pocket hole the plywood spacers to the top and back of the cabinet. Find the studs and attach the back spacers into the studs. (This will keep your cabinet from moving)

6. Build the face frame using 3/4” pocket hole screws. (I highly suggest using the Milescraft Grabber Plus for ripping your wood down to size on the table saw)

7. Using a circular object and 1/4” plywood, make a template for the arched toe kick. Transfer that over to your toe kick and use a jigsaw to cut it out. 

8. Line up the face frame with the cabinet and mark for dowels. Using the Milescraft Jointmaster and the Drillblock + drill to attach the face frame to the cabinet.

9. Glue and clamp the face frame to the cabinet. 

10. Build the doors. Place a 1/2” spacer inside the cabinet so the hinges sit flush. Using the Kreg Hinge Jig, place the hinges and screw them onto the cabinet. You should have an 1/8” reveal around all 4 sides.

11. Place 1/2” spacer on both sides of the cabinet where the drawers will go. Screw in the drawer slides and attach the drawer boxes.

12. Build the drawer fronts. 

13. Using the Milescraft Grabber Plus, rip your drawer trim to 1/2” x 1/2” and roundover with 1/4” roundover bit.

14. Attach trim using glue and starbond to hold it in place. 

15. Attach the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes using 1” screws, making sure to keep 1/8” reveal around all 4 sides.

16. Using a hardware jig, attach your chosen hardware and you’re done! 



Track saw/table saw/circular saw

Pocket Hole Jig



Kreg Hinge Jig

Nail gun


40 BD FT

1 sheet 3/4 plywood

1/2 sheet 1/4" plywood

1 1/4” Kreg Jig screws

1/2” Roundover Bit

2” screws

Rabbeting bit

2x pair drawer slides

Double sided tape


1” screws

4X pair of inset door hinges

Magnetic door stops

Glazer points

L brackets

Acrylic sheets

Glass cutter

Cut List 

Cabinet sides: 58.75" x 11" x .75" (4)

Cabinet top & bottom: 20" x 10.25" x .75" (6)

Cleats: 20" x 1.5" x .75"

Drawer box: 19" x 9" x 3/4"

Drawer front: 20" x 5.5" x.75"

Center doors: 36" x 1.75" x .75" (8)

6.5" x 1.75" x .75" (8)

Upper doors: 9" x 1.75" x .75" (8)

6.5" x 1.75" x .75" (8)

Trim: 11.5" x 4.5"x .75" (4) miter one end

22.5" x 4.5" x .75" (2) miter both ends

Face frame: 20" x 1" x .75" (8)

Inside Shelves: 20" x 10" x .75" (4)

1.Cut the side panels for the towers to size as well as the top and bottom panels which will be made of plywood.

2. Attach the top and bottom pieces of plywood to the wood sides with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

3. Cut and attach the cleats on the top and bottom of the towers.

4. Optional: Roundover the front edge of the towers with 1/2” Roundover bit

5. Attach the towers to the back wall through the cleats using 2” screws. If you don’t have a stud to drill into use drywall hangers.

6. Attach the face frame pieces to the inside of the cabinet using 1 1/4” pocket screws and glue. Make sure to attach them at the bottom of the cabinet, 6.75" from bottom, 42.5" from bottom and 52.5" from bottom.

7. Cut the drawer pieces to size and assemble using 1 1/2” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

8. Route the underside of the drawer box and screw/nail in the 1/4” plywood bottom with wood glue. 

9. Attach the drawer slides to the drawer box and the sides of the towers. Install the drawer boxes.

10. Cut the drawer box front to size. Put double sided tape on the backside of the drawer front and stick it onto the front of the drawer box. (Make sure you maintain an 1/8” reveal around the drawer front. Clamp & screw in the drawer front from the inside of the drawer using 1” screws.

11. Cut and assemble the upper doors with dowels/domino/pocket holes and wood glue.

12. Use the Kreg Hinge jig to drill the cup holes for the inset hinges. Install the inset hinges on the doors. (Make sure to cut an 1/8” reveal around all the doors)

13. Install the doors onto the side of the cabinets.

14. Repeat steps 10-12 for the smaller upper doors.

15. Install the plywood shelf between the upper and lower doors using 1 1/4” pocket screws and glue.

16. Install the magnetic stops to keep the inset doors from closing in.

17. Cut the plywood shelves to size. Optional: Add hardwood edge banding to cover the plywood edge or use iron on edge banding.

18. Install the shelves using L brackets inside the cabinets.

19. Cut the upper trim to size and nail into the cabinet box with 1 1/4” brad nails.

20. Rabbet a groove on the back of all the doors.

21. Cut the acrylic to size and install in the back of the doors using Glazer points.

22. Sand, stain and enjoy your new bar!

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